Hedonist heaven, September 28, 2008 (Credit: The Age)

Las Vegas has never been more exciting, writes Rob McFarland.

Having successfully shaken off its family friendly image of the '90s, Las Vegas is now an unashamedly indulgent playground for adults. Lured by the assurance that "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", record numbers of people are coming to party.

Almost 40 million people visited Las Vegas last year and a record proportion of those were Australians. It's a trend that looks set to continue with the promise of cheaper fares when Virgin Blue's new long-haul carrier, V Australia, starts daily flights to Los Angeles in December.

There has never been a more exciting time to visit Sin City. Here's what you can expect.

Sleeping

The swankiest spot to stay in town is Donald Trump's new Trump International Hotel. It opened in June and has raised the bar for opulence and personal service.

Interestingly, it's located off the main Las Vegas Boulevard (the Strip) and has no in-house casino so it's perfect for those looking for a respite away from the main drag.

Steve Wynn has been one of the driving forces behind Vegas's recent development and his latest venture, the $US2.7billion (about $3.2billion) Wynn Hotel, has some of the finest finishes on the Strip (including a Picasso portrait for which Wynn reportedly paid $US42million). Wynn's sister hotel, Encore, is scheduled for completion in December.

While places like Trump and Wynn offer unparalleled levels of luxury, if your budget doesn't stretch that far it's worth checking some of the older properties. The recently refurbished Treasure Island and the well positioned Planet Hollywood are attractive options in a city where a central location can save you time and taxi fares.

The most exciting development in the pipeline is the CityCentre project. Expected to open late next year, the $US9.2billion venture will transform a 29-hectare site in the middle of the Strip into a sprawling complex of hotels, casinos and shops. Top tip: Use the monorail or Deuce Bus to get around, instead of taxis.

Eating

In the past decade Vegas has experienced a culinary revolution with celebrity chefs flocking to the city to create some of the finest eateries in the US. The $10 buffet has all but disappeared - people now want a gastronomic adventure and are happy to pay big bucks to get it.

For the ultimate three-Michelin-starred gourmet extravaganza, try "Chef of the Century" Joel Robuchon's signature restaurant in the MGM Grand. An oasis of silk drapes and chandeliered opulence, you'll feel like you're dining in an Art Deco Parisian ma

The 16-course degustation menu is a tour de force of French cooking; attentive staff and a 33-page wine list complete one of Vegas's finest dining experiences.

Alternatively, you might like to unleash your inner voyeur in the modern day equivalent of a 19th-century European bordello. Named as one of Conde Nast Traveller's hot tables of 2008, Cathouse in the Luxor combines restaurant, lounge and nightclub.

Choose from a menu that meanders from French classics to home-cooked favourites such as macaroni and cheese, while watching a lingerie-clad model change in a glass-fronted dressing room.

If you're a wine connoisseur, Charlie Palmer's Aureole in Mandalay Bay is worth visiting for its wine tower alone. Use a handheld tablet PC to choose a bottle from more than 3800 labels, then watch a "wine angel" fly up the tower on a cable Mission Impossible-style to retrieve it. Top tip: Ask for a tour of the kitchen at Joel Robuchon - the staff work in a Zen-like state of silent concentration.

Shows

Vegas sports such a wide range of shows and attractions that many people holiday here without ever going near a roulette wheel.

Cirque du Soleil has five separate productions on the Strip and is set to open another two in the next two years. Their show, The Beatles Love At The Mirage, is the current favourite with its familiar tunes and special effects.

For heart-stopping acrobatics, see Le Reve at Wynn. Set in a circular theatre with a 3.5-million litre pool for a stage, the show combines a heart-warming storyline with incredible feats of athleticism, including several "Oh my God, I can't look" freefall dives from more than 25metres.

Celine Dion may have hung up her beret at Caesars Palace but she's been replaced by three equally high-profile performers - Bette Midler, Cher and Elton John, who all have similiarly lavish productions at the venue.

Vegas has never been short of a seedy strip show but adult entertainment offerings have now moved up a class and into the mainstream. Semi-nude productions such as Luxor's Fantasy and MGM Grand's Crazy Horse Paris feature professionally trained dancers and attract as many women in the audience as they do men. Top tip: For discounted tickets, try one of the five Tix 4 Tonight outlets.

Partying

In keeping with Vegas's new hedonistic era, the parties are starting earlier and getting wilder. For example, numerous hotels have established exclusive adults-only pools where DJs pump out party tunes for a high-spirited, Margarita-fuelled crowd.

Tao Beach at The Venetian is the favoured spot on a Saturday and is the closest modern equivalent to a Roman orgy. If you've got a spare $US750 you can hire a private cabana complete with plasma screen and Xbox, otherwise you'll have to slum it in the pool with a hundred gyrating Paris Hilton lookalikes.

Some venues such as MGM Grand's Bare Pool have gone one step further and allowed topless bathing - an initiative that simply wouldn't have been contemplated a few years ago.

When the sun goes down, the lights come on and Vegas steps up a gear. The place to be seen on a Friday night is Palms casino which has four nightclubs, including the world's only Playboy Club complete with bunny hostesses plus Moon, a penthouse playpen with retractable roof.

Tryst at Wynn is a good bet for a Saturday with its decadent interior and outdoor area overlooking a huge floodlit lake and waterfall.

And on Sunday it's all about Pure at Caesars Palace, a multi-levelled venue with a dance floor surrounded by beds and the largest outdoor party terrace in the city. Top tip: For the hottest midweek spots, find out which venue is hosting an industry night.

Shopping

High-end retailers who wouldn't have been seen dead in Vegas 10 years ago are now scrambling to open flagship stores. At Wynn, you can not only pick up a new Ferrari but you can fill it with Louis Vuitton and Jean Paul Gaultier accessories.

One of the more pleasant shopping experiences is strolling the cobbled streets alongside the canals in The Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes. If you're in the market for a new Lamborghini, take a connecting walkway to the Venetian's sister property, The Palazzo, where you'll also be able to stock up on Jimmy Choos.

Other malls worth visiting are the Miracle Mile at Planet Hollywood which boasts 170 specialty stores and 15 restaurants, and the impressive Forum Shops at Caesars with its Roman ambience and 190,000-litre salt water aquarium.Top tip The best bargains are still in one of Vegas's three outlet centres - Fashion Outlets of Las Vegas, the Las Vegas Outlet Centre and the Las Vegas Premium Outlets.

The writer was a guest of the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority.

TRIP NOTES

Getting there: V Australia will begin flying daily from Sydney to Los Angeles on December 15 with return fares starting from $2087. Las Vegas is a short internal flight or a five-hour drive. Phone 138 287 or see http://www.vaustralia.com.au.

Staying there: Trump International Hotel and Tower, 2000 Fashion Show Drive, Las Vegas. Rates from $US159 ($190) midweek; $US199 weekends. See http://www.trumplasvegashotel.com. Treasure Island, 3300 Las Vegas Blvd South. See http://www.treasureisland.com. Internet rates from $US79.

Further information: See www.visitlasvegas.com.au.
Source: The Sun-Herald
Tao Beach at The Venetian is the favoured spot on a Saturday and is the closest modern equivalent to a Roman orgy. If you've got a spare $US750 you can hire a private cabana complete with plasma screen and Xbox, otherwise you'll have to slum it in the pool with a hundred gyrating Paris Hilton lookalikes.

Some venues such as MGM Grand's Bare Pool have gone one step further and allowed topless bathing - an initiative that simply wouldn't have been contemplated a few years ago.

When the sun goes down, the lights come on and Vegas steps up a gear. The place to be seen on a Friday night is Palms casino which has four nightclubs, including the world's only Playboy Club complete with bunny hostesses plus Moon, a penthouse playpen with retractable roof.

Tryst at Wynn is a good bet for a Saturday with its decadent interior and outdoor area overlooking a huge floodlit lake and waterfall.

And on Sunday it's all about Pure at Caesars Palace, a multi-levelled venue with a dance floor surrounded by beds and the largest outdoor party terrace in the city. Top tip: For the hottest midweek spots, find out which venue is hosting an industry night.

Shopping

High-end retailers who wouldn't have been seen dead in Vegas 10 years ago are now scrambling to open flagship stores. At Wynn, you can not only pick up a new Ferrari but you can fill it with Louis Vuitton and Jean Paul Gaultier accessories.

One of the more pleasant shopping experiences is strolling the cobbled streets alongside the canals in The Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes. If you're in the market for a new Lamborghini, take a connecting walkway to the Venetian's sister property, The Palazzo, where you'll also be able to stock up on Jimmy Choos.

Other malls worth visiting are the Miracle Mile at Planet Hollywood which boasts 170 specialty stores and 15 restaurants, and the impressive Forum Shops at Caesars with its Roman ambience and 190,000-litre salt water aquarium.Top tip The best bargains are still in one of Vegas's three outlet centres - Fashion Outlets of Las Vegas, the Las Vegas Outlet Centre and the Las Vegas Premium Outlets.

The writer was a guest of the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority.

TRIP NOTES

Getting there: V Australia will begin flying daily from Sydney to Los Angeles on December 15 with return fares starting from $2087. Las Vegas is a short internal flight or a five-hour drive. Phone 138 287 or see http://www.vaustralia.com.au.

Staying there: Trump International Hotel and Tower, 2000 Fashion Show Drive, Las Vegas. Rates from $US159 ($190) midweek; $US199 weekends. See http://www.trumplasvegashotel.com. Treasure Island, 3300 Las Vegas Blvd South. See http://www.treasureisland.com. Internet rates from $US79.

Further information: See www.visitlasvegas.com.au.
Source: The Sun-Herald

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